Junichi Abe launched Kolor more than a decade ago as a men’s line, one aimed at a certain type of stylish man, the kind for whom a sweatshirt is never just a sweatshirt, and whose sneaker selection is not necessarily a reflection of his athleticism. Abe’s comparatively fledgling women’s collection, now in its second official season, has a markedly similar aesthetic in mind: military touches on parkas and vest pockets, narrow-cut cotton trousers topped with netted tulle, and of course, sweatshirts, though here they boast jersey backs or pleated tulle trimmings, along with the occasional frilled, high collar—Victoriana meets Champion. Abe develops all of his textiles himself, and they are unique to the house, so what might feel de rigeur—hammered silver and gold lace, metallic-stamped organza—upon close inspection is subtly spectacular, the lace here pleated, miraculously, to show its shiny underside. Layered oversize polka-dot T-shirts were worn loose off the body and over houndstooth printed shorts, an exploration of what a brand representative (Abe was not present at the presentation) called “where good taste meets bad taste.” Ballooning skirts appeared to be made of parachutes, if parachutes were also made of tutus. Abe has never been afraid of a little color, and bold stripes reigned supreme, with flashes of fluorescent tones put to good use on trims, like that of a standout bomber jacket, slim and olive and just the type of layering piece any person needs in their wardrobe for an unpredictable spring.
Shoes, a new undertaking for the designer, came in three styles: a thick, ridge-soled kitten-heel pump, a platform brogue, and a platform sandal inspired by one from the men's collection, the top rendered in richly earth-toned suede. The aim of this collection, an aide explained, is in step with much of this season: not to dress “some impossible woman,” but rather, real women, specifically, “the Kolor Man's girlfriend.” At least they're in good company.
