Designers Carol Lim and Humberto Leon love a far-flung, unexpected destination for their Kenzo shows. Those who made it out to the Nineteenth Arrondissement this morning, though, were transported to a different milieu in more ways than one: Gigantic white arches were stacked on the runway, and painted with the shades of pink and peach that recalled the sun-washed architecture of Mediterranean towns, such as Portofino in Italy.
Kenzo is a brand that's global and nomadic at its core, so having endless summer vacation vibes built into the set was a nice touch. And with their new collection, the New York duo addressed how a well-traveled, modern woman can put some of that feeling into her everyday wardrobe. The word swimtimates will sound unfamiliar to some, but essentially it takes the traditional idea of a bathing suit into your lingerie drawer, an approach to summer dressing that cool young things on the festival circuit will understand. There were compelling renditions on the runway that were worth flaunting: knit, geometric pieces that peeked from under spaghetti utilitarian minidresses and updates on the ’90s bodysuits that were paired with printed miniskirts.
The fanny pack, that other ’90s favorite, got a makeover too, and the best example was fashioned military style, with three small pouches on a waist-cinching belt. Lim and Leon have a knack for making practical and Instagrammable accessories like this, though the ornate chandelier earrings and bold necklaces were a little misplaced within the sporty, graphic context of the collection. The sensible, ankle-strap gladiator sandals that came with spiky reflexology footbeds put the skin-baring, printed looks on a fresh footing.
