The palazzo pajama was originally created by Irene Galitzine, a cultivated Russian princess turned couturiere who lived in Rome in the ’60s. Her clientele ranged from the grandes dames of the Roman aristocracy to Audrey Hepburn. Jackie Kennedy was also a fan and sent her a lovely thank-you note in 1963 that read: “I was so touched at your thoughtfulness in sending me your marvelous pajamas for Christmas.” But it was her friend Diana Vreeland who with her usual panache gave the chic ensemble—a masculine-inspired blouse paired with wide pants—the name that’s still used to these days, that has become synonymous with a sensual, androgynous, and eccentric way of dressing.
The fashion world has long been fascinated by lounge-inspired attire; recently almost every known designer has tapped into what has become a global trend. But for Francesca Ruffini, a refined woman with a calm demeanor, the passion for pajamas reaches back to her personal lifestyle and to her desire for both comfort and elegance. “I’ve always lived in a pajama because it has a uniform quality that I find appealing; it’s the first thing I wear when coming back home after a day outside,” she said during the presentation of her Spring collection, held in her sprawling flat in the heart of Milan. Her pajamas are veritable pantsuits that can be worn 24/7, carrying you from day to night, or can be worn as separates: “I like the monogrammed jackets of my custom-made pajamas with a demure midi skirt; the pants look great with a tailored blazer,” said the designer, while pointing out a lineup in sumptuous silks sourced in her native Como and printed exclusively in festive colors. Each look was accessorized by a sleeping mask that could morph into a graceful headband. To further demonstrate the already convincing versatility, Ruffini expanded the range with fluid robes de chambre (read: bathrobes) in elongated lines—made in liquid, languid jacquards, they were perfect to be worn as dusters or evening dresses. The effect was of subtle yet alluring seduction. She also added a bra to wear under the coats: “I hate the look of exposed lingerie!” she exclaimed in mock horror. “But my husband encouraged me to add a sexy-yet-elegant touch to make the look more desirable.” The husband in question is Remo Ruffini, CEO of Moncler, who actually happens to know a thing or two about making a successful fashion business: His suggestions on the subject cannot be easily overlooked.
