“It’s a passion play of opposites,” said an upbeat Ermanno Scervino backstage before rushing out to greet Italy’s First Lady, Agnese Landini, a friend and loyal client. The collection he presented today celebrated his signature hyper-feminine, Italian-diva style, though he tempered it with a contrasting dose of masculine and sporty elements. Fortunately for Scervino’s fans, this did not tarnish the glam factor; on the contrary, it polished the edges, giving the lineup a contemporary feel.
Craftsmanship took center stage with an elaborate display of materials, textures, and finishes. Lace was utilized in myriad ways—bonded with a double layer of delicate guipure, embroidered with macramé and jacquard feuillage, and fused with cashmere pashmina to sumptuous effect. The silhouettes were either elongated and slim or sensual and shapely; evening fabrics were worked into tailored day coats and pantsuits. Light organza gave shape to a classic tuxedo duster worn with cropped pants and flat embroidered babouches. In another clever conception, a sporty olive green jumpsuit was paired with a luxe mink jacket dyed a bright shade of bubblegum pink. Masculine shirts in crisp striped poplin were a chic counterpoint to tight duchesse satin pencil midi skirts, while shades of lipstick red served as an unexpected and striking contrast to a delicate periwinkle hue. The result was a lineup of edge and modernity, spicing up Scervino’s trademark sensual touch.
