Dondup creative director Manuela Mariotti was looking at a more feminine, romantic direction for Spring; she tapped, with gusto, into the current feeling for all things bohemian in a collection that referenced poetry, rock ’n’ roll, Shakespeare, and Glastonbury. Part indie music goddess, part Ophelia fragile beauty, the Dondup girl was ready for her close-up swathed in fluid, billowy dresses with frills galore and a touch of folklore.
Prints were digitally reworked from Indian motifs or suzani tapestries, giving a vibrant feel to elongated lines in bright hues that popped up from a black background. The mandatory ’70s-style references were also on display: high-waisted tunics, bell sleeves, wispy fabrics, troubadour-ruffled blouses, flared cropped pants. It all made for a cohesive lineup with a graceful yet concise feel, where denim was not at the core but more of an accent, presented sparingly and in relaxed shapes. “It often happens when you design a collection that you get carried away, working on an idea that then brings you in a completely different direction,” said Mariotti of a process that started with a futuristic vision and then morphed into a celebration of a free feminine spirit. Empowering women and enabling them to express creativity is a theme very dear to the designer, who, despite the Ladies of the Canyon hippie vibe abundantly displayed in the collection, still loves a good, tough rock ’n’ roll gig and a well-fitted, sexy pair of denim to dance the night away.
