“The charm of irregularity” is how Brunello Cucinelli described the spirit of his Spring collection, a lineup of fluid shapes in creamy whites where raw textures took center stage. Inspired by the elegant beach resorts of the Années Folles, and the sophisticated yet dégagé style of the decadent elites of that era who holidayed in Deauville and Biarritz, the style was relaxed and soft with a subtle retro feel. A touch of modernity was added through references to the Japanese love of organic materials—their traditional streamlined, minimal lines and sophisticated cutting techniques.
“Embracing imperfections is a fascinating concept, because it mirrors nature and the flow of life itself,” said a dapper Cucinelli, pointing out sweaters knitted with raw hemp, dusters cut from buttery-soft raw silk, and cardigans in corrugated yet supersoft yarns. Pants were the foundation of the collection, which, despite the exotic visual inspiration, was rooted in practicality and wearable day looks. Ankle-grazing culottes were gathered and softly pleated at the waist; a wraparound skirt–trouser hybrid looked modern. Paired with a pearl gray shaved mink sleeveless top, it added a touch of luxe to the lineup.
Jackets were elongated and masculine with a relaxed feel, due to the use of ultra-lightweight fabrics. Garçonne-style cardigans recalled the sophisticated insouciance and the sporty elegance of the ’20s, but were given the signature Cucinelli treatment: Crafted with raw, precious fibers, they were deconstructed to achieve a sort of chubby yet fluid effect. “I’d like my style to be extremely versatile, day-to-night, ageless, timeless, perfect for women of all ages and sizes,” he enthused. Case in point: His elegant wife and their two young daughters were on hand—and all looking at ease clad in head-to-toe Cucinelli.
