“There is that rock ’n’ roll side, and a sexy suit—a little bit boyish, you know. It’s what I love to do,” gushed Barbara Bui, air-kissing German photographer Ellen von Unwerth backstage at her Spring show today. And if it’s what Barbara loves to do, then it’s what Ellen loves to photograph—sexy, uncomplicated clothes that do double-time as a flamboyant urban wardrobe for the jet set, or perhaps those aspiring to join it.
Underscored as a love letter to Bianca Jagger, Bui’s Spring collection traced a racy through line going from urban tailored separates (safari-tinged shirtdresses and city shorts or their romper equivalents) to wrapped bra tops and leggings, all cut in supple leather. Her material of choice channeled a retro élan when patchworked as a harlequin snakeskin suit, or an ’80s shock in hot pink napa. It would take little imagination to picture a young Jagger poolside in the former option, or one of the season’s silk slipdresses, trapped by sculpted corset belts at the waist, their plunging necklines revealing bikinis beneath.
Later, Bui took a gaucho trip involving fringed ponchos in tan or aubergine suede, for a South American theme that evolved into silk fringed eveningwear the designer called “night owl” embroidery (a suit and gown were positively festooned with the stuff). Those pieces swung past, begging for serious dance-floor real estate, but it’s probably the no-fuss sex appeal of Bui’s daywear that will lure her ladies in. Hell for leather, if you will.
