In 2011 a food-supply scandal made the news in China when watermelon farmers who had sprayed their crops with a chemical product that promised rapid growth were dismayed to discover it served only to make their melons explode into worthless pulp. Earlier this month a minority stake in Alexis Mabille was sold to a 3,400-outlet Chinese fast-fashion outfit called Peacebird, which plans to roll out a network of Mabille stores in China.
Mabille chose the watermelon as his motif for this, his first post-Peacebird ready-to-wear collection. There was a sequined watermelon on the front of a ruche-armed sweatshirt teamed with some jaunty shorts and a sheer half-skirt, watermelon print split-to-the-hip pants, watermelon bracelets, watermelon necklaces—you get the drift. More ambiently watermelon-touched were the dubious contra-color layered lace slip dresses—in watermelon-esque tones—and satin separates. This collection was at its best when sans watermelon yet explosive of silhouette: The oversize biker jackets and skirts were easy and fun. There was also a sweet ’80s-flavor jumpsuit with volumized arms and a tonal fold at the neck. Plus, Mabille slices a pretty fine jacket: The single vented (watermelon) red example with an interestingly projecting revere was proof of that. There was an emphasis on open-at-the-back shirting—perfectly fine—and an insistence on miniature backpack fanny packs—kind of Philipp Plein.
This was very much a local’s show, packed to its marble rafters with Parisians breathily just-about tolerating (as only Parisians can) the abundance of their fellows. The new Peacebird aspect to Mabille’s story lent it an edge, which the clothes unfortunately rather lacked. It also made you really hanker after a nice ripe slice of lovely, juicy watermelon: organic, ideally.
