“Enter India,” Elie Saab’s program proclaimed. The muse of his new couture collection, the notes went on to explain, was a turn-of-the-last-century Englishwoman on a trip to the subcontinent. “India is her backdrop and her inspiration for a new blend of formalism and ease, opulence and elementary lines.” That read like a real departure for the designer, who tends to prefer the reassurance of the familiar. But lately the Beirut-based Saab has been focused on change.
It began in earnest with his Pre-Fall lineup, which featured sequined Wellies and studded creepers, and generally exuded a more youthful attitude. Here, his bid for hipness manifested itself most obviously in lace-up combat boots, mini backpacks, and sturdy-looking belt bags—all in metallic leather. They were unlikely sightings at haute couture, where accessories tend to be of the more precious variety. But subtler propositions, like the elevated, above-the-ankle hems on a few beaded lace dresses, were a delightful surprise. They looked fresh with lug-soled sandals.
In general, the collection was a call and response between Edwardian silhouettes, which are not such a great leap chez Saab, and Indian pieces, which are. So you’d have a high-neck Edwardian-style dress followed by a cropped jacket with a Nehru collar and softly tailored pants trailing a split train, or a gown with a built-in beaded capelet, and coming up right behind it, a thigh-length number with a sari-like sash thrown over one shoulder.
Some really different vibes seeped in late in the show when a model rolled out in full rock-star regalia: jeweled pants stuffed into boots, a crystalline camisole, and a matching coat that reached to the ground. The Beatles in India, maybe? Mr. Saab, book that look a flight to the Grammys.
