The legendary Marchesa Luisa Casati, one of the most enduring inspirations in fashion, served Alberta Ferretti as a muse for her Limited Edition Fall collection. Casati’s dark femme fatale beauty and lavish display of wild eccentricities mesmerized generations of artists; she was worshipped and hated in equal measure. “What I like about La Marchesa was her untamable free spirit and modern allure,” said Ferretti. “She lived in Venice, whose atmosphere suited her mysterious charm.” The enigmatic decadence of the city was the backdrop of choice for the collection’s video presentation, a new, social-savvy medium embraced by Ferretti with gusto. Filmed by photographers Luigi & Iango, it had a dreamy Malgosia Bela acting as la divina marchesa, roaming around a Venetian palazzo hypercharged with gilded stuccos. In true Casati fashion, a real, not-so-friendly-looking panther and a bunch of knotted snakes were also in attendance.
Ferretti reworked a number of themes borrowed from the debauched aristocrat’s bizarre aesthetic, giving them a contemporary spin. The blown-up animal prints were inspired by Casati’s menagerie of exotic beasts; the obsession with veiling her aging face with layers of dramatic lace translated into dark, wispy dresses; her lissome ’20s elongated silhouette was the template for willowy column tunics. “She was free of constraints, strong and unique but exquisitely feminine,” said Ferretti. “She embodied all the qualities I like in a modern woman.” The collection reflected that spirit, revolving around a counterpoint of soft and structured elements. An abundance of finely embroidered embellishments and appliqués was offset by pure lines and precisely cut shapes; craftsmanship was of a high standard. Ornate 3-D details graced light, almost impalpable fabrics; precious textures had a rich, baroque feel, enhanced by virtuoso techniques of execution. Ferretti’s graceful signature smoothed the excess of drama contained in such an extreme look—it made for a lineup in which glamour had a touch of delicate, modern ease.
