"I try to depict a man who is timeless. A modern guy you couldn't put a stamp on. That's where I want to go, actually." Ilan Chetrite's exegesis of his Sandro collection seemed incongruous, because the clothes he presented appeared rooted in several micro-epochs, all of them 20th century. Sure, those wide high-rise silk pants and tattered-hem, pin-tucked, topstitched jeans had neither break nor flare—out of time to an extent. But the high and wide collars on his suiting, the string tees, and the chisel-toe Chelsea boots were just a few ingredients in this pot-au-feu of Gallic masculinity; it was variously redolent of Le Salaire de la Peur via Fernando Rey in The French Connection through to the henchmen in Diva. There were fine pieces here—a strongish check DB suit, a few not-too-overstylized black leathers, a reasonable trench—and pulled apart from their confreres, many of them could work well enough in 2016. However, as a styled collection of ensembles, it felt too much like an unfocused mix-tape of anachronisms.
