The clear film affixed to models' faces may not register in these photos, which is for the best—in person it was easy to mistake for a next-gen chemical peel. But when Boris Bidjan Saberi revealed that he was inspired by the aesthetic of antiquated metal diving suits, the artificially wet visages seemed appropriate and supported the overall impression of clothes that were highly engineered.
The Barcelona-based German designer builds clothes from inside out or outside in, working through every element, from the double-sided metal buttons to the adjustable-lining-panels on the parka-style jackets. His post-show explanations were key to understanding how he arrives at his drop-crotch shorts—"I want always to change the fit and proportion of a man"—and artisanal fabrics, 80 percent of which are developed in-house. About the one that looked slickened: The jersey had been painted with a vinyl coating and pressed at 150 degrees Celsius.
Saberi's clothing can seem intimidating, as much for the styling as the esoterically industrial image the garments project. You could be forgiven for feeling this is total-look territory; as in, wear the stiff cotton waders over the zippered leggings or don't even try. But the collarless jackets and fine-gauge twisted knits could easily align with commercial imperatives or more conventional taste. Then again, you don't really gravitate to the line because it's safe. You just dive right into the deep-blue Nepalese yak leather.
