Marco de Vincenzo is a cultivated designer. He doesn't boast fancy mood boards, doesn't ruminate at length about references, and doesn't muse about "getting inspired." One gets the feeling that all he knows—and he definitely knows a lot—is translated in the most natural way into his work. The Resort lineup that he presented in his showroom today showed his continuing evolution.
The collection revolved around geometries and textures, two staples of de Vincenzo's stylistic codes: The perfection of the circle, drawn with a sweeping, dynamic gesture, was the starting point for numerous interesting variations. It was translated into a fringed fil coupe macro polka dot woven on silk mesh that gave a feel of movement and energy to the surfaces of dramatic Bauhaus tunics, tops, and summer coats. Elsewhere the shape became a tiny multicolor stud that punctuated a duster in black brocade corrugated in circular patterns. It was also morphed into tiny round scattered shapes that were lacquered on tulle for frilly, feminine yet modern short slip dresses, and morphed into small moving round pois embroidered on light cashmere sweaters. There was also a delicate circular floral pattern for a summery cotton eyelet dress.
Speaking of florals, de Vincenzo set himself free to experiment in a new direction, working a quite substantial flowery pattern in bright colors printed on silver leather for a series of separates—a sleek abbreviated blouson, a tube midi skirt, an elongated sporty jacket—that could be freely mixed and matched. To amp up the playful edge, the lysergic floral motif was also used as the lining for a voluminous fox-fur coat printed in a tiger pattern: It made for a sophisticated look of balanced eccentricity that was successfully achieved with ease and confidence.
