The first observation that will likely cross your mind when you survey Kenzo's Resort collection is the no-color color. You'll get the impression the entire grouping was exposed to a bleached Instagram filter so that the lilac appears more powdery and the army green akin to parched earth.
Turns out, Humberto Leon and Carol Lim drew from the desert, allowing its climatic characteristics to inform aesthetic and functionality alike. The cartoony cacti print satisfied the brand's quirky prerequisite, but an embroidered cactus camo, a lunar-mapped jacquard, and a pointillist sand print had equal graphic impact precisely because they had been abstracted. The big picture boiled down to arid everyday dressing: extra-floaty skirts and dresses, from pleated mesh to parka-style; pants just generous enough for ventilation; a crisp white poplin dress with studded removable panels so that it could be worn mini, midi, or maxi; and nylon layers for when the wind kicks up. Meanwhile, all the fabrics glided atop the skin—except, of course, for the camel sweatpants with their shamelessly logo-ed right leg. But the focus on polish—the recurring use of black trim, shiny D-rings, and talisman-like pendants—kept the looks from drifting too thematic. Oh, but there was a water-bottle-inspired minaudière, which would have been ingenious had it actually contained a vessel for fluids. Alas, it didn't. But it did serve to reinforce how the collection, most of all, felt fresh.
