We already know Giorgio Armani is something of a Francophile. He likes Coco, he likes Cocteau, and with his new Resort collection, he was expressing his admiration for the Parisian chic of Inès de la Fressange. The straight line of the shoulder, the slim silhouette, the red-white-and-blue-ness, the matelot stripes lending a hint of St. Tropez…yes, all of that might have echoed the insouciant grace of Inès, but the rest of the collection was A-grade Armani. Emphasis on the A. A coral pantsuit sported the subtle branding of an A-shaped cutout in back. But A was also for Arts and Crafts, as in the intricacy of a waistcoat woven from red, white, and blue ribbons, or the collarless coat similarly woven from ribbons of leather. And A was also for Asia. That coat was accompanied by wide pants that were knotted down the side seam, a detail that was reminiscent of something you might wear to practice Japanese martial arts. In fact, the knot was the leitmotif of the collection, most strikingly when a black jacket dramatically lined in red sported a knotted lapel. As Armani's oblique take on the more feminine bow, it was a reminder that the designer is always adding his own twists to the conventions of dress.
