Dondup, the denim brand that has steadily built a cult following, is branching out into ready-to-wear, trying to find an identity in a quite crowded marketplace. Not a task for the faint of heart. But creative director and founder Manuela Mariotti is optimistic and upbeat: "Strength, light, poetry," she stated when asked about the inspiration behind the Resort collection. "I like strong, intense women, and I was looking East, to the Korean archers and their discipline and focus. They are taught from an early age to embrace such a noble ritual exercise like elegant warriors."
The Eastern theme trickled down to a collection built around linear shapes reminiscent of martial arts, as in a cotton kimono jacket paired with a tube midi skirt or a pajama in striped silk viscose that had a masculine, relaxed feel. Of course denim, the house's forte, made up the lion's share of the lineup. It was mixed with linen, silk, and even cashmere to give flexibility to the fit, or was shredded and sliced to achieve a rougher finish. One pair of jeans looked at first glance like regular denim, but to the touch they felt soft and smooth. They were actually silk pants, deceptively printed to look like the real classic thing. Worn with an oversize fatigue jacket or with a black tuxedo, they had a contemporary, modern spin.
