For Resort, Costume National creative director Ennio Capasa started with the vest and worked his way from there: Here were three-piece suits, vest skirts, vest dresses, and vests sewn into suit jackets. But while Capasa loves the clash of menswear ideas and womenswear ideals, this collection was even more firmly rooted in youth culture. Ultra-wide-leg, drop-crotch trousers were akin to raver pants, made modern when transformed into a strapless jumpsuit. Capasa used "septum piercings" to close up shirts or simply decorate a pieced-together top, reinforcing the aesthetic. The lineup was strongest when the approach was deft. For instance, a red sequined dress overlaid with black sheer organza appeared cooler than 3-D dot leather pieces, which were almost too straightforward in execution. Some of the best pieces were deconstructed silk blouses with elasticized mesh straps decorating the back of a halter or the edges of a tee. It was a sporty detail that looked great with those jumbo trousers. Sort of a luxury version of the JNCO/tank top uniform embraced by '90s raver kids.
