Boosted by a successful Spring ’16 show, a mood of focused optimism energized Versace’s Pre-Fall lineup. Taking an active approach, Donatella Versace reworked sportswear-inspired elements into a polished look with an urban attitude. She steered clear of the house’s signature hyper-glamorized eveningwear and focused instead on modern daywear. Tailoring and precise construction were the foundations on which Versace built coats and jackets of controlled proportions, paired with elongated, high-waisted pants or with short, sexy pleated skirts. Fabrics were dense yet malleable, giving the shapes a sculptural feel with a soft edge.
A play of contrasts is always welcome chez Versace; here, the designer worked her favorite feminine/masculine motif by splattering a slim sleeveless column dress in houndstooth wool with a pink rubberized floral print, or by printing an elegant coat in sumptuous herringbone tweed with a brushstroke effect in bright lilac. Pink scratch marks decorated the distorted digital background on miniskirts and a zip-up bomber jacket with rebellious, irreverent results. Tailored pieces were influenced by their inner construction or by the asymmetry of paper patterns, and embellishments came in patchworks of bejeweled stitches, studs, and grommets. The collection was grounded by chunky heels, flat loafers, and sturdy Chelsea boots: Versace glamazons, for whom heels were once never too high or too thin, will have to adapt pronto to the new look.
