Most of the time, a fashion trend is just in the air; we can’t explain where it came from or why we want to wear it, but collectively, it just feels right. For Pre-Fall, Tibi designer Amy Smilovic and her all-girl design team thought about what was missing in their wardrobes, and at the top of their wish list were rich shades of brown; stronger shoulders; and quirky, not girly, ruffles. Other designers may have taken ruffles in a romantic direction on the latest runways, but Tibi customers aren’t really looking for romance. Smilovic’s tiers were flat and asymmetrical, adding subtle texture to a silk slip or a little heft to a billowing peasant dress. As for all that brown, even the most die-hard New Yorker might reconsider her black basics upon discovering the leather pants, double-breasted suits, and fluffy mohair sweaters in shades of sable and chestnut.
On the whole, these clothes could be labeled “classics with a twist,” but don’t put Tibi in a minimalist box. The shoes—namely feathered slides, strappy Mary Janes, and floral-embroidered boots—spoke to Smilovic’s yen for the unexpected. “It was important to have the shoes speak a bit louder,” she said. “When you’ve got a clean, minimal top and pant, you need something more fun.” Also unexpected: the embellished leather pieces, like a high-waisted jumper and shrunken motorcycle jacket. Tibi’s most daring customers will no doubt scoop those up come May.