With a New York store opening on the schedule in early 2016, artistic director Julie de Libran was talking about the Sonia Rykiel customer at the label’s Pre-Fall presentation this morning. Pre-Fall is often code for “commercial” and “safe,” but De Libran’s output didn’t feel basic or watered down. She’s got a good handle on the whimsy and joie de vivre that are integral to the Rykiel mystique—see the denim jacket and high-rise, button-fly flares, both covered in patches, or the black velvet leisure suit studded with rhinestone cabochons and worn with a sheared fur coat.
Color played a starring role: A chartreuse jacket, teal blue top, and bright pink skirt has got to be the most daring combination we’ve seen all season. Prints got plenty of play as well. Last season’s oiseau morphed into a graphic handprint motif that looked fun on a cotton popover top and matching pull-on pants. And there was no shortage of sequins either; they turned up on dresses short and midi-length and on a cool pair of cocktail-ready track pants. But it wasn’t all so overstated. De Libran is turning Rykiel into a go-to label for a great, classic coat, and there were several here worthy of a double take. The brand’s signature stripe-y sweaters were also a welcome sight.
