It’s no longer up for debate: Everyone agrees the pace of fashion has become unrelenting. Designers left and right are stepping down from their creative director roles or, worse, shuttering their businesses. Now the question isn’t just how to keep up—it’s how to be one step ahead. There are lots of ways designers can do that, from online-only models to more frequent retail deliveries. An approach that has worked for several brands is to simply do one thing particularly well, then update it each season. For Piazza Sempione, that thing is pants.
In past collections, the Italian label often put an emphasis on arty references or custom prints, but zeroing in on trousers tends to yield better results. It has done every style you can think of—skinny, straight, cropped—and wisely stayed on top of the latest trends. For Pre-Fall, it was all about the ultra-flattering cropped flare. A burgundy leather pair was an instant standout, as was the soft, slouchy cardigan styled with it. More directional were the extra-wide, single-pleat trousers in classic gray or navy that flowed out in A-line shapes. Those forward-thinking silhouettes allowed for relatively quiet prints, save for a splashy melon and raspberry midi skirt inspired by Cubist artist Sonia Delaunay. In the end, it was the small, surprising details—like ruffled necklines, sequined pockets, and fur accents—that felt particularly fresh here. Perhaps Piazza Sempione’s upcoming 25th anniversary had the creative team feeling a bit experimental.
