Lorenzo Serafini is in town this week for an event at Barneys New York, which sells his Philosophy collection exclusively in the city. The store has gotten behind Serafini in a big way, despite his short time at the label. It helps that he arrived a little more than a year ago with a very clear idea of what he wanted to do, namely retro-tinged femininity with an emphasis on prints and knits. Pre-Fall continued in that vein, but where his previous offerings felt ’70s-ish in nature, he said this collection was referencing the ’90s. It was a subtle shift.
Filmy mousseline dresses in micro-florals felt of a piece with his prior output at Philosophy, as did other dresses in lace. They have a bohemian spirit, but remain modern in feel and easy to wear. Cable-knit sweaters with ruffle details looked familiar, too, like vintage treasures minus the drawbacks of truly vintage finds. As he grows the brand, Serafini is putting a bigger emphasis on tailoring. Edwardian and military references informed a knockout cropped jacket in tulle-covered rabbit fur, as well as a simpler but chic officer’s coat in charcoal gray wool. A substantial wool houndstooth was used for coats, an A-line button-front skirt, and high-waisted mannish trousers—not an easy silhouette in such a heavy fabric, but Serafini happily confirmed that Barneys bought them.
