Marco de Vincenzo’s artistic streak is fed not only by his passion, but also by a keen observation of the complex reality of women’s lives. His new Pre-Fall collection proved his ability to balance creativity and comfort, combining sophisticated visual references and experimental flair with a streamlined, modern approach. He’s definitely no minimalist, yet the rich ingredients of his style—the strong sense of color, the love for geometry and structure, the movement of fringe and plissés, the artsy 3-D decorations, the elaborate textures and intarsias—retained a sense of restraint and finesse. The results were eccentric yet soigné.
“I believe in the therapeutic power of colors,” De Vincenzo said of the vibrant hues so relevant to his vision; they were counterbalanced by dark tones that added a touch of depth and drama to an otherwise energetic palette. Bold stripes and checks were mixed freely, but with a subtle hand; the fluidity of feminine shapes softened the precision of masculine tailoring, peppered by the metallic glow of shining Lurex and paillettes. Lace discreetly emerged from décolletages; bright satin linings added a charming sensual touch to wrap skirts and tops.
Those linings were a peek into De Vincenzo’s not-so-often-displayed poetic and playful side, which he likewise let loose in a custom-made print inspired by Italian porcelain figurines from the ’40s. An army of squirrels, baby foxes, groundhogs, and rabbits of Disney pedigree paraded across pleated chiffon dresses and short pinafores. They were also embroidered with a 3-D effect on the back of sleeveless varsity jackets. Who would have thought that a modernist’s heart could also beat so unabashedly romantic?
