For Pre-Fall, Just Cavalli presented a lineup that tapped into the current masculine-feminine fashion mystique (thank you, Alessandro Michele!). It took a turn not toward the languid, though; the house of Cavalli is more about black leather biker jackets, barely there miniskirts, and ultra-skinny jeans (thank you, Hedi Slimane!). The collection was designed by the studio team; Cavalli’s new creative director, Peter Dundas, will present his full vision for Fall in Milan. This collection was an updated replica of the codes that have proved successful for the label: a touch of grunge to spice up the rock-chick attitude; the references to the glorious ’70s (no other fashion decade has ever endured such longevity); and a casual, nonchalant glamour.
There is no Cavalli without a good dose of animalier prints, and Just Cavalli complied; all the repertoire for a modern, not-so-romantic Lady of the Canyon was on display. Long dresses were printed with stars or flowers; tuxedo jackets were worn with stretch leather pants; oversize studded bikers and bombers had the mandatory borrowed-from-the-boys vibe. It was all well and good—but we’ll wait for Dundas to give the lineup a much-needed kick to bring its cool factor and unique point of view back into place.
