Rodolfo Paglialunga, Jil Sander’s creative director, is aware that the brand’s legacy is not the easiest one to confront. He refrains from using the usual string of adjectives associated with its style—linear, essential, rigorous, strict. “I think they’re predictable,” he said during the label’s recent presentation. “It’s not just about basics with trite feminine/masculine dialectics, [and it] cannot be reduced to minimalism. It deeply relates to the reality in which we live, which is why it has always been so relevant.” Paglialunga put layering front and center for Pre-Fall, not only as a metaphor for protection from our challenging times, but also as a synonym for flexibility and interpretation. In order to adapt, we have to be malleable yet firm.
It can’t be denied that a sense of austerity has always been ingrained in Jil Sander’s lexicon. Still, Paglialunga wanted to address it in his own way. “I’d like to bring a sense of irony into the conversation—to mess things around a bit, bring about a dialogue between order and disorder,” he said. Yet nothing felt haphazard here. On the contrary, the offering of beautifully cut outerwear in thick, hyper-luxe fabrics looked in sync with Ms. Sander’s exacting style, her aristocratic yet practical pedigree firmly in place via the coats’ masculine structure, military influences, and precise execution. Paglialunga’s own personality was at play in the collection’s layered look; he was unrestrained in the use of decorative tailored details. A long double-face cashmere vest paired with extra-long palazzo pants or with high-waisted masculine trousers nicely morphed into a scarf with a simple, elegant gesture, becoming an accessory. Overall, this was a tight, efficient lineup with a most welcome touch of cool.
