Lubov Azria has wanted to broaden Hérve Léger’s consumer base and change customers’ perceptions for some time now. Since Spring 2016 (also the label’s 30th anniversary), Azria has slowly been straying from the brand’s bandage-dress-only reputation; first, by not showing any bandage dresses at all on the runway, and then by introducing pants. For this collection, she found a happy medium. There was a little bit of everything, from the signature bandage dresses to revamped pants. But it was the new way she suggested wearing those pieces that was the most radical change. To help with the fresh philosophy, Azria referenced utilitarian-wear, specifically the G suits of pilots. Military touches like adjustable D-ring buckles and zippers weren’t solely for show: Fastening and unzipping the embedded details allowed for a bandage dress to transform into an A-line shape. Another introduction was pairing the dresses with flat shoes (polished block-heeled loafers with an asymmetrical grommet buckle) to show that, yes, even those body-con dresses could be worn to the office. The combo was believable: With the workwear-appropriate footwear, the knitted mesh and jacquard dresses could go from the cubicle to cocktail hour with the opening of a zipper.
Azria seems to be rethinking the idea of sexy, which makes sense; now, women are just as likely to reach for a pair of skintight pants as they are a minidress. Indeed, one of the sexiest pieces from the collection was also the most covered: a curve-skimming army green bandage jumpsuit (complete with a matching mandarin collar jacket), full of strappy and elastic bits. It had the same figure-flattering effect as the dresses, only it was cooler.
