As an expert in eveningwear, Giambattista Valli knows exactly what it takes to make a splashy red carpet moment go viral: Walk into his showroom up in Chelsea today and the first thing to greet you at the door is a mannequin in the couture dress that J.Lo wore to the Globes this past weekend (one that, incidentally, now has its own meme). This season the Italian designer decided to venture outside that glamorous comfort zone and ponder a more 9-to-5 existence. “The focus was really on daywear for Pre-Fall,” said the designer, speaking via phone, from his atelier in Paris. “The mood was easygoing and eclectic.”
For Valli that meant wrapping his mind around a wardrobe of pants. Building on the retro romantic vibe of his Spring collection, the trouser silhouettes swung between the late ’60s and early ’70s, and sharply tailored brocade and wool crepe flare pants were cut either to the floor or the ankle. Though the whimsical long chiffon dresses and pretty mini frocks in the collection were certainly appealing, it was nice to see hardworking office tropes, such as the traditional tweed suit, take the spotlight, and a groovy, magic mushroom–print suit was one of the best looks in the bunch. Of course, Valli’s circle of stylish front row friends will still have their fill of straightforward glamour: The colorful intarsia fur vests and coats are reliable and chic catnip for street style photographers and paparazzi alike.
