Fausto Puglisi’s style is not for the faint of heart. The man himself has extreme impact and the energy of a tornado ready to hit at full force. But behind the flamboyant, volcanic personality (after all, he hails from southern Italy, where volcanoes abound), there is a sharp mind and an articulate vision. Puglisi’s references are disparate. America fascinates him, as does mythology and Greek and Roman statuaria. He loves Gianni Versace’s glamorous sexiness as well as Oscar de la Renta’s grandeur; he admires Nilde Iotti, a legendary Italian soigné Communist leader, as well as Texan blonde bombshells in studded cowboy boots; he swoons over Durango jeans of the ’90s but has a flair for the finest, most exquisite couture textiles. Surprisingly, this mixture gels into collections that make sense.
For Pre-Fall, Puglisi toned it down a notch, showing restraint without compromising vitality. His lexicon was all there in full regalia, but it was enhanced by judicious editing and a customer-savvy approach. Texas was still the destination of choice; having lived in Dallas for a while, Puglisi knows a thing or two about the local style. It translated into embroideries and stitched appliqués that emblazoned abbreviated dresses, flounced or A-line miniskirts, blazers, and sweaters. Of course, there were studs and cowboy boots galore, albeit of the luxe variety.
On a different note, a group of slim coats and cabans in a rich caramel hue were made in sumptuous double cashmere and perfectly cut with razor-sharp precision. They had a more subdued, classy vibe and showed a different side of Puglisi’s aesthetic. Or so it seemed. They were lined in deep black for a dark, dramatic effect. “It’s subversive bon ton,” said the designer, with a Cheshire Cat grin.
