Bianca Jagger is never a bad place to start, and for Pre-Fall, Christian Siriano channeled Mick’s former wife, as well as the nocturnal glamour of Helmut Newton images. Jagger’s certain brand of aristocratic flair sprung to life in spruce black-and-white styles, like a long-sleeved sheath with delicate buttons down one arm. Elsewhere were dramatic ensembles in black silk-satin and flared trousers that came laced with fringe and sheer stripes or shot through with gold Lurex.
Eveningwear, the cornerstone of Siriano’s business, has evolved some as the designer sees a growing demand from his clientele for nighttime separates; just the other day, Lupita Nyong’o was spotted in a matching top and trouser combo from his Spring lineup. Here, he proposed lovely suiting in magenta silk faille (Jagger would approve), a cropped jacket decked out in heaps of shaggy ribbon trim, and a satin capelet scattered all over with glossy black cabochons and teamed with matching trousers. One of the best looks of the lot had a darkly bewitching kind of Old Hollywood charm to it: a mock-neck black gown with a full overskirt of tulle in ombré shades of smoke.