For all the British points of reference appearing on the latest Carven inspiration board (Twiggy, bearskin caps, Prince of Wales check), the corresponding collection did not amount to an Anglo-inflected pastiche. Instead, it seemed as if Alexis Martial and Adrien Caillaudaud treated these visual cues as raw ingredients, simmering, braising, and Carven-izing them so that the label’s faithful gamines would feel right at home. The boiled wool pastel cocoon coats that have become a brand standby returned in sharper hues (a vibrant lilac, azure blue) with softer, curving collars. Skirts stopped reliably above the knee yet presented unexpected elements, such as the frayed carpet effect achieved by turning an unfinished jacquard inside out.
Each wardrobe mainstay, in fact, boasted some sort of boosted detail—from the slouchy supple leather pants in spirulina green to metallic windowpane patterning on a proper navy tunic. Crepe soles on schoolgirl loafers had been supersized. The requisite sweatshirt bloomed with embroidered Japonisme buds. Bags were shown in pairs—carryall plus CD case (obviously not, but the size was right!). With this collection, the designers have completed a full cycle. They’ve found their groove by serving up more pep than you usually see from the Paris houses. And this—even more than the frilled collar knits and toggle closure tweed jackets—might have been the most Anglo influence of all.
