From her Marais showroom, Barbara Bui seemed especially enthusiastic about this season’s juxtaposition of graphic punch and softened shapes, pointing out how the plaid patchwork double-face knits represented quintessential early fall outerwear, whether in Paris or elsewhere. With its equal breakdown of statement sweaters, leather, and fringed “rockabilly” tailoring, the collection fell neatly in line with Bui’s accessibly edgy shtick while serving up a few surprises. Most were zipper related, from the leather pants that slit open to reveal contrasting color panels to subtle side zips that turned a coat into a cape (or vice versa). When asked how she knew a saturated shade of icy blue would work in velvet and leather, Bui replied that its universality as a shirt color had strong potential to translate across a wardrobe. And it’s true—once you get past the image of Jeff Daniels in Dumb and Dumber.
Women whose closets are already filled with Perfectos might consider the wool coat with rabbit shoulder accents and leather sleeves, or else the classic motorcycle style in velvet. Both represented Bui at her updated best. As for the comparatively eccentric addition of cropped, flared plaid pants, the designer pointed out their place as an alternative silhouette that feels no less Bui as long as they’re worn with sexy laced booties. And just at the point when you wondered whether a black dress with a back panel in floral patterned lace signified a decidedly feminine outlier, Bui declared, “It’s the new tattoo.” Bien sûr.
