Versus Versace was launched in 1989 as a “gift” Gianni Versace offered his sister Donatella so she could express her creativity. She immediately infused the line with her fiery, fearless, sexy spirit. Over the years the brand has become a sort of free space for her to experiment with clever collaborations and partnerships with various upcoming talents—a testament to her desire to look forward and take risks, and to her taste for what’s new, hip, and hot. Her keen eye has so far picked up only the best; Christopher Kane was followed by Jonathan Anderson and now by Anthony Vaccarello, who currently holds the creative director title. La Signora, which is how everyone in the house refers to DV, gives them free rein—yet she remains in charge.
Leaving aside the widespread rumors about Vaccarello leaving for a Mighty French Maison, the new Versus Versace collection was a reminder of how naturally and easily his language fits the brand’s codes. The attitude: urban and utilitarian with a tough, rock ’n’ roll–chick edge. The silhouette: streamlined, abbreviated, sexy, strong. Military surplus references were reworked for fur-lined parkas, zip-up MA-1 bombers, and short cargo pants in black leather. Camouflage was given a wild spin with an overprinted lion's head motif (Versus’ answer to Versace’s Medusa); silver-studded ultra-miniskirts were pleated with asymmetric hems. The boy-girl vibe was the thread that held the collection together; it had a current, individual allure.
