The bias-cut dress is a silhouette at the beating heart of John Galliano. What with the return of the slip, it was a natural place for creative director Bill Gaytten to start. He spliced the femininity of the lingerie-inspired look with more masculine references—the decorated military uniforms as rendered by the artist Francisco Goya being one. Admiral-worthy outerwear replete with epaulettes and grosgrain trimming was thrown over the shoulders of models in slinky ’30s-style frocks in pale shades of pink and icy blue. The girls in the show who wore the pants did so with sweet lace blouses and Edwardian-style frock coats that often had their tails cropped short. There were plenty of other recognizable English eccentricities in the mix too—think pocket watches and newsboy caps that conjured a Ye Olde London consistent with Oliver Twist.
The boxing boots that were worn with each look were a styling device that felt more in step with the down-to-earth British cool of right now, though ultimately, it was the dresses that held their own overall. The asymmetrical shoulder draping was a flattering alternative to all the spaghetti straps that have been dominating of late, and though it might be nothing new for the brand, it felt ripe for a revisit. Stylish ingenues looking to make their mark on the red carpet scene would be wise to pick up the floor-length black dress that came sprigged with handfuls of 3-D floral embellishments.
