Experimentation is necessary for creativity, and in this retail climate, probably for survival, too. But there is real power—in any context— in knowing your strengths. Fur, in all of its sumptuous, finger-sinking glory, is Gabriele Colangelo’s, and he demonstrated that on his Fall 2016 runway, whose “wavy geometry” was inspired by the artist Christian Maychack. Generous, elegant robe coats strode out in understated shades of slate and a deep aquatic astrakhan; lovingly worked mink was cut into the vertical stripes on a long straight coat; silver fox was cut into a mosaic on the back of a wool topper, in coats long and lean or shorter, chubbier, and ample in their fluff.
When things were not so warm and fuzzy, such as in the case of raw cut separates in wool, velvet Devore and jacquard, they took on a hurried air, with skirt hems left intentionally uneven, threads loose, and trousers in light men’s wool split at the ankle, puddling over the foot. The more finished ensembles carried a sense of the swashbuckling, largely due to either their propensity to have sashes tied around the waist, ends left dangling, or because of the silhouette. Mutton-sleeved transparent tops (or the odd plastron) were paired with knee-length culottes, straight patent leather skirts and tall leather boots.
Not all the fur worked. I suppose having a pelt dangling from your waist is in step with fashion’s current fondness for charms and keepsakes of all sorts, as seen at Prada and Tod’s, but the ones slung across shoulders and waists here seemed straight out of The Revenant. Things came back together with the arrival of a pair of richly pigmented patent leather coats in navy and chocolate blue with extended furry collars. More of those sleekly chic fur coats, please!
