The Thousand and One Nights (and Days) of the Pajama: Francesca Ruffini Stoppani, For Restless Sleepers’s creative director (the brand’s name reads as the acronym of her initials) might one day consider writing a ponderous tome on the multiple incarnations of the most Instagrammed (and copied) wardrobe staple of the last couple of fashion seasons. But despite being the other half of Moncler’s honcho Remo, Ruffini doesn’t have the faintest trace of a fashionista bone in her body. For her, pajama dressing is less about trend following than it is a natural personal style that values comfort and sophistication in equal measure. “Living in a pajama is an attitude, a desire for intimate, relaxed elegance,” said Ruffini during the presentation of her second collection, held in the preternaturally luxurious, feutré atmosphere of her Milanese flat.
Ruffini considerably expanded her lineup for Fall, taking the pajama out to dinner, so to speak. Or to a business luncheon; or just out in the morning to walk your très chic Weimaraner (possibly feisty and called Ulisse, like her own) around the block before hitting the office for a day at work that could drag on to a glam evening at La Scala. Fabrics were fastidiously chosen and exquisite-looking; exclusively made by the best Como mills from the finest silks, jacquards, and light brushed wools, they were densely printed with exotic motifs, drawing on Ruffini’s fondness for antique jewelry, literature, and art. The classic masculine robe de chambre was made more substantial, softly padded to make it suitable for daywear and mid-season weather; it could also be worn layered under coats or furs when crazy temperatures plummet.
A light touch of exotic inspiration spiced graceful details as cheongsam collars—an homage to Wong Kar-Wai’s In the Mood for Love—or Moroccan-inspired fine embroideries on black velvet for an elegant evening version. The versatility factor was further enhanced by a vast choice of trousers; prints and shapes, tops and bottoms could be mixed and matched in endless combinations. “There are no zips, no hooks, you see?” said the designer, while pointing out a gorgeous ensemble printed with Native American shamanistic motifs. “I love the freedom that a feel of real comfort and ease can give—but it must be only of the elegant type, please.”
