Today was Massimo Giorgetti’s second time on the runway for Emilio Pucci after a tough start last September. In between then and now, he said he spent more than a few sleepless nights considering his path forward at the brand. The results showed on the runway this afternoon. Giorgetti’s message was clearer this time around, and less muddled by awkward layers and overworked embroideries. That’s an important first step. What it came down to, Giorgetti explained, was thinking about what he’s good at, and what Pucci was good at. He found the synergy in activewear. It’s not the most famous part of the Emilio Pucci legacy—the house founder was known more for loungewear than true sport—and it’s certainly not what Giorgetti’s predecessor focused on at the Florentine label. But it’s in the archive all the same, and it’s in Giorgetti’s DNA, so voilà.
Giorgetti put pictures of mid-century ski slopes on his mood board, but you couldn’t miss the collection’s alpine theme if you tried. It was writ large (and we do mean large) on puffers, sweaters, and shearling coats variously printed or intarsia-ed with a mountain landscape. It was obvious, too, in the second-skin jumpsuits that would make an aerodynamic under-layer on downhill runs or a colorful après-ski conversation piece. As for taking the look to the street, Giorgetti is likely to find the most success in the zip-neck velvet pullovers with wrinkles baked in and patchwork pleated skirts, which had a charm and wearability that tapped into the original Pucci ethos. He should build on relatable pieces like these as he continues to refine his Pucci sensibility. And skip the logo sweatshirts. Now that he’s found the synergy, he also needs to ensure that he keeps his eponymous brand and the Pucci brand distinct.
