“It feels good to be back in Milan,” said Andreas Melbostad, Diesel Black Gold’s creative director, backstage before the label’s runway show (which for the past several years has been held in New York). “There's definitely a new energy in the city and it seemed the right move for the brand to be closer to an international audience of buyers and press. Also, being able to directly and quickly access the Italian supply chain gives you more control on quality and execution, focusing more on the collection.” And indeed the lineup looked more focused, with a new energy trickling down into the clothes.
Diesel has always stood for a rock ’n’ roll look with intense street style vibes. In today’s show that soul of the brand was still there, but it was smoothed over. The edges felt more polished, less raw. One could feel the difference in mood just listening to the soundtrack: a cinematic, emotional, sweeping theme from the movie Gattaca was served up by the maestro Michel Gaubert. It set a very different tone from the stomping rhythm of industrial-techno usually associated with Diesel’s presentations—not to mention their raucous, coveted parties. “I wanted something warmer,” said Melbostad. “Richer in texture, nocturnal, almost luscious. Yet still controlled.”
It made sense that midnight blue was the color of choice, which then morphed into signature deep black as the collection progressed. The utility elements were all there as they should be: the hybrid-looking outerwear in which the designer excels acted as the lineup’s foundation. Yet what felt new was the extensive work on different textures: paillettes gave a glam attitude to biker jackets; macramé lace was encrusted and embroidered for raw denim miniskirts; appliqués of ribbons and fabrics decorated high-waisted, straight-legged denim cropped pants. Velvet and Lurex added shine and depth to the dense fabric mix. To top it all off, the hems of skirts were unusually a little longer; apron/pinafore pleated dresses looked sleek and (yes!) feminine. Multilayered styling might look street-savvy and cool—but it was banned: “I wanted to keep it linear,” said Melbostad. There’s definitely nothing wrong with that.