The modern maiden spirit that pervaded Spring’s Cacharel collection was noticeably absent for Fall, as if a girl graduating from university had a revelation that her closet lacked grown-up clothes. It’s unclear whether this shift can be traced to the commercial side or the creative; but either way, anyone paying close attention might be tempted to conclude that Cacharel has coasted far too long without an official artistic director who could develop a consistent brand identity. Which to be clear, is not necessarily a reflection on the studio; the design team turned out more than enough smart pieces to attract the aforementioned entry-level professional in addition to women looking for well-made clothes that hover between fast and high fashion.
The prints, for instance, were comparatively downplayed and drew more from Arte Povera and the work of Jannis Kounellis than the usual garden-variety blooms. Pants with thick yokes and tie accents, plus blouses with kimono sleeves, interpreted traditional Japanese details for everyday. The most successful category, however, was the coats. The brushed wool chevron versions introduced a sense of menswear ease not typical of the brand, while supple leather and rabbit fur, whether solid or color-blocked, reinforced an overall elevated image. Of course, these pieces won’t be quite as accessible as a draped wool shirt or cardigan robe (one coat will top $2,000). But smart young women will understand the importance of investing well.
