Anthony Vaccarello has been the subject of rumors in Paris that name him as the designer in line to inherit Saint Laurent, should Hedi Slimane leave the Kering brand, as has been whispered about for months. Before his show today, Vaccarello played down the rumors, and there was “no comment” from his reps, but inevitably a frisson of energy was added to his Maison de la Radio show space. It wasn’t just the presence of the newly platinum-again Lucky Blue in the front row.
Vaccarello landed on the Paris scene five years ago now, with his leggy sensibility fully formed. If there’s been a knock on him in the time since, it’s that his clothes are too single-mindedly sexy, but it hasn’t much hurt his trajectory. Donatella Versace put him in the driver’s seat at Versus Versace a year ago. And now there are the Saint Laurent headlines.
In the absence of firm statements, it’s tempting to look for clues to Vaccarello’s state of mind in his new clothes. Fall did find him stretching a bit. It will remain the leggiest collection of the week (save for at least one brand we can think of that tends to crib liberally from him), but there was news to be found: in the colorful crystal flower embroideries, in the Claude Montana–ish rounded shoulders of the tailoring (the ’80s are rematerializing everywhere this season), and in Vaccarello’s excellent fur-lined outerwear.
The designer explored corsetry details, only he shifted the perspective, cinching the hip area rather than the waist. The effect was especially cool on hoodie dresses, one in a substantial black leather and another layered underneath a cropped bomber, which counted as two of the most compelling looks in the show. He also gave tooled leather a go, cutting it into fitted jackets and minis with flames shooting up the front, which had the unfortunate whiff of Western costumes. It wasn’t perfect, but Vaccarello should feel pleased with himself and this collection, no matter what his future holds.
