A Kriemler family trip to Kenya and Tanzania inspired the new Akris collection. There was no escaping the clues, from the savannah red of the runway to the animal calls on the soundtrack. Albert Kriemler's collection was shades of red, too, from the orange shaker knit sweater opener to the aubergine of a reversible cardigan coat at the end. In between he sampled all manner of safari motifs, from zebra stripes to giant turtle hashings to an embroidery designed to mimic elephants’ deeply grooved skin. To sharpen the image, he accessorized with Maasai-inspired collar necklaces made out of thin cords of fabric and knee-high, stacked heel boots with rugged lug soles. The models’ faces were painted with graphic markings.
Destination collections have gone somewhat out of vogue. Taken as a whole, this one struck a rather literal note, especially considering that Akris is a brand known for its understatement. But there’s no denying the persistent success of animal prints on the sales floor. We’ve certainly seen plenty of leopard spots elsewhere this season, and it’s savvy business on Kriemler’s part to get in on the action. Akris is also known for its fine Swiss embroideries, and the animal patterns gave the brand a chance to show off its know-how. The leather scale embellishments on a jacket and coat were so finely rendered that they almost tricked the eye into thinking it was actual python skin. That elephant embroidery, meanwhile, was so densely stitched it hardly looked like embroidery: It seemed more like a richly textured fabric. In the end, this collection’s appeal will be more clearly seen up close and in the hand than on the runway.
