The purposeful skewing of standard proportions across “luxury essentials” was the main plot at Joseph today. Head of menswear Mark Thomas and creative director Louise Trotter were interested in a joint idea of archival, grandfatherly pieces—cardigans, car coats, “an aristocratic character borrowing heirlooms—kind of heritage, in a way,” said Thomas—and skinny Irish youths wearing clothes that were far too big for their wiry frames. “That came from Perry Ogden’s book, Pony Kids,” added Thomas. “It’s very tribal, very much about a gang, and they all wear a lot of sportswear.” What resulted was an array of cut-just-so separates, perfectly suited for creative layering (think of a wool coat in ebony brown, “the new neutral,” laughed Trotter, over track pants with contrasting racing stripes). The duo is also on trend for the season—and, enjoyably, not in-your-face so—with looser trousers and the employment of velvet.
Joseph’s men’s branch is only five seasons old, but evidently it’s off and running and doing well. The brand plans to open its first dedicated men’s store on Savile Row within the month—and it won’t be selling other labels, like many of its existing outlets. That’ll occur in time for Fall deliveries, standouts of which include the aforementioned jacket, flared camel slacks, a knitted merino sweatshirt in ashen gray, and a whip-smart city-boy oxford shirt. Athletic sweats with a tuxedo could be a more difficult sell; likewise a tangerine color. One got the sense that these fell too far afield of the “luxury essentials” manifesto. However, given its young age, Joseph is on the right track.
