Costume National’s Ennio Capasa used the term contamination to describe his Fall 2016 collection. He meant it to convey crossbreeding of clothing genres—couture and combat gear, he said—but Costume National is always contaminated with a few ideas from other labels. It’s a good indication of the way fashion’s favor is currently blowing—less indicative of what we will see in shops than of what they’re already selling. So while the long, skinny shadow of Saint Laurent’s reed-thin, rock ’n’ roll, oh-my-God-which-member-of-the-band-did-I-just-wake-up-under brand of waster wares is still cast over looks like zip-dissected motocross pants, heavily embroidered blousons, and shrunken blazers, some new notes are seeping in. A billowy androgynous silk blouse with jabot ruffle, say, or an oversize shearling coat, or another tailored in electric blue. There were also a few of the MA-1 jackets that have proliferated for the past couple of seasons.
Here’s the thing to remember when watching a Costume National runway show: Don’t look for revolution. Temper your expectations. This label will never shift the fashion landscape; few designers have that kind of seismic influence. What it will do is tinker with already well-established styles, perhaps allowing some newer ones to infiltrate.
The models’ brisk pace caused you to grab at the few ideas you noticed. Presumably retailers will do the same, as will customers who want safer, less demanding versions of the garments other labels are proposing more provocatively. Costume National may not move the earth, but it sure does shift clothes.
