“It’s about father and son sharing the same wardrobe,” said a grinning Brunello Cucinelli presenting his Fall collection. “The father will look younger, and the son will save on his budget!” But the savings seemed a bit unlikely: This lineup was full of many desirable pieces to be worn with the trademark Cucinelli elegant nonchalance. The clothes looked appealing to an ageless audience which favors comfort and a sporty touch but is partial to high quality and a certain deconstructed flair. The dialogue between formal and informal is at the core of Cucinelli’s work, where the lines between occasion dressing and formalwear are blurred. This season it all revolved around a zillion versions of the jacket, presented as the foundation of a versatile, practical look.
“A well-tailored jacket is style-defining and can change your attitude in a minute,” enthused Cucinelli, asking a (very good-looking) model to demonstrate how this assumption worked. Jacket off: look ready for the weekend. Jacket on: look ready for a dinner—or even for the boardroom. In any case, the fit should be relaxed, the weight almost imperceptible, the fabric malleable as if it were a sweater. Cucinelli’s jackets are almost a hybrid. They were grounded by a broad offering of trousers: elegantly ripped denims, cashmere jogging-inspired pants, or softly tailored pants for more formal occasions. A natural palette of earth tones, grays, and blues added a touch of chic and distinctive character to a look with a versatile modern attitude.
