The Italian menswear landscape certainly doesn’t lack variety. The galaxy of small, niche fashion brands can be compared to a biodiverse ecosystem that has grown organically over the years. Boglioli is an element of it: an industry best-kept secret, a little gem of a brand that was too good to stay hidden from view for long. So it grew a cult following (organically). The label’s malleable, unlined, soft-as-cardigans blazers were treasured by the happy few in the know. Now the time seems right for a close-up: A creative director has been appointed, a fashion show staged, the lineup extended and pumped up.
Boglioli’s new designer is Davide Marello. A lanky, well-mannered fellow, he has an impeccable pedigree, having worked for Gucci and Armani, which means he knows something when it comes to tailoring. Marello’s calm demeanor somehow seemed to permeate this collection, which was presented in the customary Milanese gilded salon. “I love a well-worn look, the patina that time layers over objects revealing their soul and fading their colors,” he said backstage. This sentimental vision translated into hyper-soft tailored jackets; dusters and suits of a slightly slim, contemporary fit—the signature lightness of Boglioli’s materials was enhanced by innovative treatments and textures. The luxe factor had a quiet, understated quality—but thankfully, no sense of nostalgia. A frisson was added by a printed silk pajama—a must-have piece that Instagram celebrities seem to be living in at the moment—worn under an elongated coat. A few women’s looks were thrown in for good measure, of the I-borrowed-it-from-my-boyfriend’s-closet variety. Even if that concept was a bit predictable, those pieces looked promising, complementing a men’s lineup, which, as the show notes stated, “doesn’t chase novelty at all costs.”