Would you have noticed the dimple in the tie? Jean Touitou was pointing to a knit version in pink clay worn by a long-haired model a few feet away. The brand’s opinionated founder fell into the small talk apropos of President Barack Obama, whose dimple he finds “too corporate” with not enough “poetry.” One wonders if Keats ever perceived the chiaroscuro within a sartorial crevice. From there, one might also wonder whether we gravitate toward clothes without truly appreciating them. And A.P.C. offers much to appreciate, mainly because Touitou is a stickler for detail. In one instance, the first sample of red wool intended for a coat wasn’t stiff or dry enough for his standards (here, one must wonder how he likes his martinis: “Don’t get me started,” he replied). Still, he seemed particularly pleased about the contributions from prolific young graphic designer Pierre-Marie: a puzzle pattern of paisley clusters and a trippy knit jacquard. Of the plaid pant, Touitou said, “It’s as perfect as it could be.”
The capsule collection of outerwear from A.P.C. codesigner Louis Wong (better known as Louis W.) deserved equal appreciation. Whether the motorcycle, painted shearling, or boiled wool chesterfield, there was no weak link—except, perhaps, when he mentioned being inspired by the Paris protests of 1968.
As a principle, A.P.C. eschews seasonal themes, yet Touitou did note an English eccentric inflection in the final styling of each look—from the knit tartan jacket right down to the molded leather key covers suspended from belt loops. In the past, he may have engendered appreciation for these details via a presentation spiel. While the format was scrapped, the convictions endure. When a guest praised the collection as “casual,” Touitou shot back, “I don’t find it casual at all; I find it very sophisticated.” And you know what? He wasn’t wrong.
