Luisa Beccaria seems emblematic of her brand's customer: Today, clad in a flowy pink chiffon chemisier of her own design, she greeted her posse of highborn Milanese friends at a presentation-cum-show held in the beautiful courtyard of the San Simpliciano Cloisters, a site rarely open to the public. Models in dresses as delicate as a soufflé were scattered along the monastic arcades of the secluded garden, with fountains dripping and soulful music playing on the soundtrack. It made for an evocative set, well suited to showcase a style that has proved perfect for posh weddings and exclusive debutante balls.
"I wanted to reference the languid atmosphere of a boudoir, the sensuality of the exquisite antique lingerie, yet in a modern and sophisticated way," Beccaria said backstage, where Lucilla, one of her daughters, was helping her mother navigate the preshow mayhem. Boudoir and cloisters don't seem to go hand in hand, yet the collection had a youthful, bohemian spirit, sweet but not cloying. Silhouettes were fluid and breezy, and the lingerie theme was played tastefully, as in a see-through long black chemise in silk mesh paired with a satin bodice, or in a pink robe de chambre in finely pleated chiffon decorated with a fragile entredeux lace. Intricate botanical embroideries were abundant in bustiers and in bias-cut slipdresses in flowery prints. And the sportswear theme (surprise!) crept up discreetly: Overcoats in metallic organza were inspired by a parka shape and thrown over ballerina dresses in airy mille-feuille tulle.
