For Spring, Issa's Blue Farrier mixed an equine theme with Pop Art references, which came through in a lot of black-and-white geometric curve patterns—a welcome leftover from her experimentation with geometric prints last season. The opening look was a crisp white shift dress with sheer organza detailing (a recurrent theme) on the yoke and a black undulating print on the bottom half. That motif was used on numerous pieces, from culottes to skirts and tops. A blouse with sheer sleeves, paired with trousers in a mismatched pattern, gave off an intriguing, almost ventricular look. There were also some tiny triangle cutouts on blouses, which have been a recurring theme during LFW.
The horse motif was introduced through a repeating linear inky-blue pattern of the animals in mid-trot, with their heads down. It appeared again on high-waisted skirts and crop tops that showed only a hint of skin. Presumably the long piece of silk attached to the bust area on a dress was meant to resemble a horse's tail. Farrier's use of pleating (which was a successful part of last season) and flowing organza created a nice sense of movement in the clothes, which swished as they came down the runway.
Color came via subtle peach and jolts of brighter hues—pink on a pair of trousers; a tangerine tank top with a white pleated hem; a retina-burning fuchsia half-back kimono-style top with trousers. Most of the looks were shown with flat black shoes, nearly pool slides, so the vibe was relaxed, slouchy, and boyish, with some sex appeal derived from the transparent cutouts and splices of skin. It seems strange to mention Issa without bringing up the jersey fit-and-flare dresses the line is known for, but while there was jersey, Farrier is clearly trying to expand Issa's repertoire and show she's no one-trick pony.
