Edeline Lee's latest collection was a marked step up from last season. Spring took her out of her comfort zone, which is usually a palette of gray, black, and white with a sparing use of color. What remained constant was the architectural element, which was a significant theme. "The way you stick a building together is very much like how you construct a garment," said Lee. "You have to start with foundation, then look at details and finishes. There are a lot of similarities between the two."
Lee recently renovated her home in East London—an old Georgian house with the requisite curves and details. In the process, she fell hard for the unique colors of Little Greene, the British heritage paint company, and some of its key colors made their way into the collection, notably Mr. David Yellow. That bright hue appeared in very structured tank tops with pleat detailing, matching culottes, and shoes. An all-yellow look was a big leap for someone who is more used to working with colors like anthracite gray and chalky beige. The architectural influence was also seen in the way the presentation was staged, with each model set up inside a mock-up of a room in a house.
A yellow and white tank dress had an ingenious curve, inspired by the shape of Lee's staircase and the rays of light that peek in through her windows. Those curves continued in an oversized "sweatshirt" with asymmetrical spliced sleeve details. White shirts and trousers were precisely cut and structured. Highlights were a passage of looks inspired by miter joints—featuring organza foil diagonal stripes in mint grays and gradations of black—and an eyelash dress in inky black with a nipped waist. Lee has been around too long to be a next big thing, but with this collection, bigger retailers should start taking notice.
