Anna Dello Russo was sitting front-row wearing a white satin dress with an allover smattering of oversize red lips at the Au Jour Le Jour Spring show. The print has become a trademark for this up-and-coming label run by Mirko Fontana and Diego Marquez, whose style is a cross between the energy of pop and an almost childish spontaneity. Dello Russo paired her couture-inflected number with a pair of bright high-tops, and her sporty look was not dissimilar to what Marquez and Fontana showed on the runway. Working around a manga inspiration, the designers took clues from hyper-visual contemporary Japanese culture, throwing references to a cult '80s volleyball cartoon into the mix. This meant there were shorts aplenty in the collection, and multi-strap sneakers throughout in various heights. There were stripes, too, in sheer glitter and sequins—even on distressed jeans, because at AJLJ, shine is mandatory.
Irony was another key word: Sushi jacquards and bento box clutches made for a fun take on the Japanese theme. Prints included the aforementioned lips, this time in a bad-girl-smoking-a-cigarette version. Which brings us back to Dello Russo. The street-style favorite is a supporter of Au Jour Le Jour, as are many bloggers and global style pundits. In the beginning, the label got its first bit of exposure by making deals with influential Italian fashion people and dressing them during fashion week—it was an effective business/media plan. For Spring, it seemed that Marquez and Fontana were sticking with blogger culture. Most of the looks they showed had a notable similarity to the way attention seekers are already dressing themselves outside show venues. Fontana and Marquez have great energy and a knack for the sellable: Their growing success is proof. At this point, they just need to challenge themselves more. Or opt for other approaches to styling.
