The 10th anniversary of Armani Privé gives cause to look back to Giorgio Armani's first Couture show, for Spring 2005, to see how the situation has evolved. There were 68 looks today versus 31 then. That would suggest growth. But, much more significantly, the sense of effort that dogged that early collection has been replaced by grace, serenity, and the quiet confidence that Armani, at the age of 80, has nothing left to prove.
Asia is an influence that has served Armani well over the years, and at first glance it looked like that was where he'd gone again today. But he wanted it made clear that his inspiration was actually bamboo, conveying a message of delicacy and strength. Still, the proportions, the belts, the plissés, and the palette all had distinct echoes of Japan from the opening outfit: a silk gazar jacket with a bamboo print that looked as hand-painted as any Japanese scroll, paired with flowing gazar culottes bound with an obi belt. The bamboo motif was a constant throughout, embossed on a gold silk jacket, as a raised jacquard or Swarovski tubes; embroidered in lace; or spun into organza stoles. The tan of a bamboo stalk and the green of its leaves provided much of the color scheme. Armani achieved some of his most beautiful effects with plissé jackets and pants in a bark effect.
It's extraordinary to think that eveningwear was once a novelty for the man. This collection was nothing but occasion dressing, some kind of testament to Armani's evolution as a designer, which may, on the evidence of the three collections he's shown in the past 10 days, be ongoing. An organza gown in a drift of feathers underscored his mastery of red carpet impact, but it was when another of his favorite shades began to insinuate itself that the collection really kicked up a few notches. The erstwhile emperor of greige truly is the king of the blues.
